PSFW17 – Ramp Review Day 1
All About Day 1 at PSFW 17
The tenth PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week (PSFW17) officially commenced on 13th April 2017, marking the eighth consistent year of the prêt a porter platform. As announced earlier, PFDC introduced an evolved show concept and structure. Read all about the new and improved showcase here.
Continuing with the structured approach to fashion showcases, PFDC team builds on their commitment to 3 distinct platforms within PSFW17. With separate and dedicated showcases by Luxury/Prêt designers, High-Street brands and Textile houses this year.
Day-1 of PSFW17 marked the first day of the prét-a-porter shows, featuring a solo show by HSY and Sania Maskatiya. And, grouped shows featuring Misha Lakhani and Saira*Shakira, Bank Alfalah Rising Talent Show, Kokab Alvi, Zonia Anwaar and Generation by Khadija Rahman.
PFSW17’s evening Luxury/Prêt Show on Day-1 was opened by Pakistan’s iconic couturier HSY with his brand’s S/S Luxury Prét collection titled “Paranoia”. With this collection, HSY’s inspiration draws on the life and times of the young technology driven new generation. He wanted to spin a narrative on the digital reality of a generation, whose lives play out largely online. And, how this very public condition of forever being watched and seen, induces a state of paranoia. The collection was an exploration and statement against this paranoid way of life and all of its trappings.
Within this collection, HSY has worked to bring the spheres of young art and seasoned fashion together. He brought the work of two young, emerging artists in Pakistan, Asma Butt & Ehsen Lynch, through his designs. Both artists have worked to translate their respective interpretations of different kind of paranoiacs as experienced by human beings.
This collection featured both menswear and women wear pieces. All motifs and accessories for the collection were made in Pakistan using local materials and artisans, which was definite winner. The collection’s general aesthetic was relaxed summer luxe. Luxury fabrics, such as hand woven silks and organza, were used to create matching separates. The collection presented a diverse range of items such as capes, men’s suiting, and shirts, palazzo pants and jumpsuits for women.
FNTL’s Favorite Bit: The stripped organza and silk coats and pants
Lauren’s verdict: I loved the print on print separates. The subtle embellishments totally worked with strips and the accessories added the perfect compliment to the pieces.
Misha Lakhani showcased her “Caravan” collection at PFSW17’s Luxury/Prêt Grouped Show segment. The collection was about poetic storytelling through hand-woven fabrics and superior fit.
The sustainably produced collection incorporated light, bright and relaxed hand-woven separates with charming details – all of which exude a modern decadence. Caravan sets about fusing craftwork traditions practiced by artisans from around Pakistan with the shapes and movement of modern life. These crafts included time-honed technique of applique, hand-woven textiles and fabric manipulation.
We completely fell in love with the hand woven khadi silk fabrics and we instantly felt that we were somehow at Lakme Fashion Week (coming from us, this is a compliment)! The weave of the fabrics, the color combinations and cuts worked wonders and made the simpliest outfits stand out from the crowd.
FNTL’s Favorite Bit: The natural vegetable colors of the hand woven silk fabric
Lauren’s verdict: These prints, colors and even fabric texture is completely new for me and I also fell in love! The collection seems practical, wearable and above all trendy.
Saira * Shakira
Saira*Shakira showcased its “Jiē” collection at PSFW17’s Luxury Prét segment. The collection was inspired from sporty forms and themes translated to high fashion. The signature aesthetic by the designer duo was reflected in the collection that was glitzy sequin work, oriental imagery with a touch of retro.
“Jiē” incorporated clean lines, sculpted crop tops, racer back-straps on the front, sporty block-colored paneling and embellished jackets. The color palette for the collection was subtle with pops of color. We didn’t completely fall in love with most of the accessory choices and we felt that the collection lacked finesse when it make to the final look. Maybe it was the stitching or maybe it was how the final ensemble came together, but we did feel that something wasn’t quite on point. However, the sporty vibes did stand out and some separate pieces were strong on their own.
FNTL’s Favorite Bit: The embellished pants
Lauren’s verdict: For me, seeing all these colors and embellishments is always a treat! The entire color palate of the collection was well executed and some cuts, such as the wrap shirt, definitely stood out.
The Bank Alfalah Rising Talent Show
Amna Sheikh showcased her “Rivaj-e-Virasat” collection at PSFW17’s Bank Alfalah Rising Talent segment with her mentor Maria B. The collection draws its inspiration from the rich culture of Pakistan that is losing its essence with modernism. ‘Rivaj-e-Virasat’ is a modern take on the traditional silhouettes of Pakistan that show the true essence of our beautiful ethnicity in a contemporary way. The collection incorporated gold tila embroidery and gota pati on denim. Staying true to denim, the color palette boasted shades of blue with hints of gold.
Asra Khalid showcased her “The Local Vendal” collection. The collection was inspired by the different forms of vandalism around us in the form of art, architecture and nature. The collection explored a diversity of cuts, silhouettes and textures. The collection included subdued tones and western silhouettes.
Shahroz Tariq showcased his “Let’s Celebrate!” collection at PSFW17’s Bank Alfalah Rising Talent segment with his mentor Kamiar Rokni. The collection draws its inspiration from the festive spirit of Spring and Summer season. Inspired by contemporary western silhouettes, the collection featured floral fabric manipulation without the use of many embellishment. Incorporating the hues of fuchsia pink and mint green, the collection was primarily based on Satin.
Zainab Hamid showcased her “Still I Rise” collection with her mentor Maria B. The collection was inspired by the boldness of a woman and the strength and beauty with which she faces the storms of the society. The collection featured experimentation with bold digital prints and patchwork using slub khaddar and cotton. The collection boasts structured yet simple silhouettes on an eclectic colour palette. Zainab Hamid graduated from Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design in 2016.
The Bank Alfalah Rising Talent Show was followed by Zonia Anwaar’s collection, “ZELLIIJ S/S17-18”. The collection aimed to bring together a floral and mosaic fusion inspired by work of Maalems (master craftsmen) of the Moroccan Berber. “ZELLIJ” boasts geometric patterns with monochromatic streaks bonded with hand drawn rosettes on light weight silk, twill weave cotton and close knit sheer net to give this spring the well-deserved vividness.
The collection featured boxy silhouettes and layering throughout. Range of sheer lowers with long tops, handkerchief dresses, block print summer jackets, tailored scarves, sheer cutouts and androgynous collars were seen throughout the collection.
The colour palette included mango yellow, cobalt blue, tangerine, harlequin and Paris green with lots of black and white. The collection featured a frenzy of prints, but the solid breaks and the cuts made the collection stand out. Plus, the material was just right as it subdued the prints.
FNTL’s Favorite Bit: The range of cuts
Lauren’s Verdict: Zonia has an interesting take on western wear. Though I don’t see myself wearing these prints, I’m pretty sure these will do so well in markets like Miami.
Generation By Khadija Rehman
Generation by Khadija Rahman showcased its “Bring Basant Back” collection. The collection drew inspiration from the festival of Basant that made Lahore what it was; cheerful, jubilant and in a very endearing way, ruthless and competitive. The collection represented the high-street brand’s silent protest demanding to have the city’s most beloved festival back and definetly pulled at our heartstrings.
Inspired from the shape, construction and patch work of locally made patangs (kites), the collection explored infinity in forms. One shape joins another to add a new life through its ranges titled “Uran Patola” “Guddi Kat”, “Lapaita” and “Rang De Basanti”.
The designs incorporated Korean patchwork technique called Pojagi along with Persian miniature paintings. It also revived the androgynous, elongated and structured sub-continental menswear silhouettes from the 90s. The collection took a stab at international political slogans as well as telling our politicians to wake up and bring this cultural festival back.
The color palette consisted of gradational hues of flesh pinks, flaming oranges and reds paired with sky, kale, turquoise and teal accented with fuchsia, wood brown and lapis blue. “Bring Basant Back” featured chapkans, angrakha, kurta, Balochi kurta and hanbok in a range of fabrics including fine voile, organza, pinstripe and striped cotton and poplin. They incorporated various intricate techniques, such as patchwork and layering using sheers, buckles, straps, cut outs and landscapes in its latest collection.
FNTL’s Favorite Bit: Everything! Especially the messages at the back of each outfit
Lauren’s Verdict: This has to be one of the most interesting collections I have seen so far from the Pakistani Fashion Weeks! The patchwork, the incorporation of the slogans and the footwear was inspirational.
Sania Maskatiya Presents Sania Studio
In a new direction of expansion, Sania Maskatiya introduced a brand new and dedicated westernwear line, Sania Studio. The first range for the line is titled “Cruise Collection 2017” and was showcased as the finale solo show on Day-1 of PSFW17.
Sania Studio’s Cruise Collection 2017 featured intricate floral patterns and lively motifs in its signature house prints. The collection included distinct cuts, striking palette of colors and sharp contrasts, along with free flowing pants, asymmetrical blouses, high-waisted jumpsuits and slim-silhouetted gowns.
Sania Studio line by Sania Maskatiya is based entirely in pure, luxe fabrics cut and draped in a range of directional but feminine silhouettes. Tailored by the finest craftsmen across Pakistan, hailing from generations of artisans practicing time-honoured craftsmanship and embroideries.
After seeing print on print all day, Sania’s collection was breath of fresh air. With it’s off white hues and subtle prints, the collection seems to be ready to create a niche in the ready to wear market. From Monochrome outfits to floral matching separates, every piece stood out. Definitely on our must haves list!
FNTL’s Favorite Bit: Matching Seperates in monochrome colors
Lauren’s Verdict: I can definitely see myself wearing these! All the pieces are so wearable and you can easily create so many different looks from each. I can already imagine some great day to night outfits!